A Glorious Week Hiking in the French Alps!

I just returned from a glorious week of hiking in Chamonix/Mt. Blanc in the French Alps. The weather was superb all week – better than I ever saw it during the 2 years in which I lived nearby in Geneva in the late 60s. Each morning as I walked out of my hotel to go hiking, Mt. Blanc and its surrounding peaks and glaciers were so clear and close I could almost reach out and touch them!

The first day I took the telepherique up to the top of the Aiguille du Midi at 12,000+ feet. It was a cold but sunny and snow-clad domain. Watching all of the Japanese tourists shivering and taking a million pictures, I headed towards the exit for the Vallee Blanche. It said in French, “Alpinistes Only!”, but I was well-equipped with fleece and an ice axe. So I took a stroll out on the glacier in the vast, snowy valley which drops down dramatically and eventually to become the great Mer de Glace glacier. If I had had a guide and a companion, I could have climbed up the great snow hill of Mt. Blanc or its neighbours, Mt. Maudit or Mt. Blanc de Tacul. As for the Grandes Jorasses, I could only look in wonder.

But, instead, I took the telepherique back down to Plan des Aiguilles at about 7,500+ feet and head off on the classic traverse across the Grand Balcon Nord under the Chamonix Aiguilles towards Montenvers and the terminus of the great Mer de Glace glacier. It was spectacular! On the way I looked up at the Petite Charmoz and the Aiguille de L’M and recalled fondly how I had once climbed them in 1968, when I was young, spry and foolish!

For the rest of the week I hiked the Grand and Petite Balcon Sud on the Brevent side with spectacular views all along of the Mt. Blanc massif, the Aiguille Verte and the Drus. I met some nice people along the trail and had very pleasant casual hiking companions all the time. I also enjoyed hiking along the swift flowing River Arve in the valley up to Les Praz, Tines and Argentiere. Every day was an adventure – but that is what I had come for!

Needless to say, the food was excellent too. Each evening I would stroll through Chamonix and select a brasserie or bistro for the evening’s repast. I had both fondue bourgunione and fondue fromage Savoyarde, as well as raclette and some very good carre d’agneau, sole meuniere and a few escargots to boot – all washed down with good French wine. No meal cost more than 35 Euros, which was quite a good deal!

Well, now that I have completed the high points in the French and Swiss Alps – Chamonix, Zermatt and Wengen/Grindelwald – where to go next June? I am thinking of the Italian Dolomites next year.

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